Shoe-sewing machine.



SHOE SEWING MACHINE. `APLIGATION FILED PEB.24,-1905.

1,092,56?, v Patented Apr. 7, 1914 s SHEETS-SHEET 1.

L `l y VVT" LBWLBR. SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED PEB. 24, 1905.

LQQQ @yn f Patented. Apr. 7, 1914.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

A. EPPLER. SH/OE SEWING MACHINE. APPLIGATIDN FILED FEB. 24, 1905. y

Patented l Apr. 7, 1914 5 SHEETSSHEET 3.,"

A. EPPLER.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLIGATIONHIIED F33.,24, 19n5`. Y

` Patented Apr. 7, 191% I a SHEETS-anim 4.

,am f'/ f A. EPPLER.

SHOE SEWING MAGHINE.

APPLICATION PILE-D 11313.24, 1905.

`Patented Apr. 7, 19ML SHBETS-SHEBT 5. @d #ZZ/Q17' Z4/@W61- Lgmm;

l f. y STATES PATENT onirica ANDREW ya1 1 i, aa, or -Bos'ro-N,nassAoHUsnT'rs, AssIeNoa '.ro UNITED sHoE" n 'MACHINERYQOMPANX orPATEasoN, NEW JnasnnqajconroaATIoN or To all. 'Lu/Lona. it mag/'coacemrBe it known that I, ANDRiiiv' EPi LER,` a

citizen of .the United States, residing at Machines; and I do herebydeclarejthe fllowing to be a full, clear, andexact descriptains to makeafnd use the same.

tion of the invention, such -as will enable others skilled-in the art towhich it apper- The present invention relates to an improvement 1n. shoesewing jmachlnes, and more particularly sewing machines of the curvedhook needle chain stitch type, of

which the welt and turn machines areieX- amplcs.

v The object of the present invention to re-organize the constructionofshoe sewing-- machmes of this type in order to improve theirconstruction and mod es of operation. To' the above ends the presentinvention 'consists in the devices and combination of deviceshereinafter, described and part-icularly-delined in theclaims. y

The accompanying drawings illustrate an embodiment. of the invention inthe modification of the well-known Goodyear, welt and turn machines y yI Figure 1 is a front elevation of the machine, Fig. 2 is a right sideelevation, the

-connector being broken away by a section plane, Fig. 3 is a similarside elevation with parts removed in order to show with great/erclearness parts hidden in Fig. 2, Fig. 4 is a 4left side elevation, thebearing for the main shaft being broken away, Fig. 5 is a frontelevation, and Fig-G is a side elevation` of the feet slide andawl`support, Fig. 7 is a front elevation, Fig. S is a'right side elevation,l and Fig. 9 is a bottom plan of theupper portion of the channelguidelever, Fig. 10' is a sectional front elevation, and Fig. 11 is aright. side elevation of the lower portion of the channel guide lever,and Figs. 12, 13 and 1l are similar side elevations showing the needleawlv'elt'guide4 and associvated parts in different positions, Fig. 12 inthe position which the parts assume when the needle stands in 4itsforward position through the materials, Fig. the position of the partswhen the awl is in engagement with the workY preparatory to the lateralsitos-SEWING MACHINE., i'

4Specification of Letters Patent. A i

-pleted and after itl has moved forward and feeding movementfthereto,and Fig.V 14vshows A' the awl after the feeding movement is compenetrated the materials.

As above suggested the present embodi-` ment of the invention isillustrated as a hereinL specilically referred to are or maybeconstructed substantially as in said machine,

and for description thereof reference may be had to thel patent toFrench and Meyer, No. 412,704..

The needle N is the usual curved hook needle and it is carried by theusualmeedle segment and-is arrangedl'andoperated in theusual manner.

The looper L 1s carried-upon' 'the lower end-of the looper lever Z,which is pivotallyr supported upon the swivel 2, in turn pivotally.mounted upon a stationary part of the frame of the machine., Upon theupper end of the looper lever are carried threecam rolls which engagecam paths on the cam disk 3 mounted on the mai shaft S ofthe machine. i

The above described arrangement is such that the looper starting fromitsposition at the rleft in/the rear of the'thread linger moves firstto theright thendown around the needle and up over it to lay the thread in thehook of the needle'and then downwardly in a diagonal direction Vto theleft to a position substantially inline with 'the i needle hole, thenafterthe needle has with-i drawn through the materials it moves straightup and then to the left to its original position. This motion ofthe-'looperfr'equires a second dipinthe cam after vthe first dip which4causes thel looper to move downward in the needle V-encircling'movement..l

The thread fingerF is a'ctuatedtomake slightly longermovement-th'an'the-.thread finger of the Goodyear machine s'othat'it hasslightly greater threadtaking capacity .but it is supported and actuatedinthe same manner as in said machine.

The needle guide G is mounted upon the stud 4 which extends through alongitudinal hole provided for it in the needle shaft and upon itsopposite end it carries an arm 5 to the end` of* which is attached oneend of Athe spring 6 having its other end attached toa stationary partof the machine. This construction baffords a more convenient methodofapplying the' spring to 4he needle guide, butit 'actuales the needleguide in the s'ame nihniier as it was actuated in the said Goodyearmachine, namely, to move the guide yieldingly toward the work with theadvancing movement ofthe needle. The needle guide is provided with ashoulder T which isadaptedto be engaged by a lug 8 secured' to theneedle segment. When the needle is retracted the lug 8 engages theshoulder 7 of the needle guide and'positively retracts the needle guide.The lug 8 does not engage the shoulder 7 until after the first part ofthe ietracting movement of the needle is completed (see Fig. 12).

The take-up T and auxiliary take-upt are constructed substantially as insaid patented machine but the cani which operate:` the take-up issoshaped that it rises during the forward movement of the needle to takeup the slack in the loop standing around the.

' the needle on the one side -thereof while the thread finger givesthread to it on the other side. vSince the auxiliary takeup falls -toits limit and rests against its stop before the needle begins itsloop'drai'ving stroke, the auxiliary takeup has no thread drawingcapacity While the takeup and thread arm are giving up thread to theneedle, and consequently the Aauxiliary takeup is prevented fromstealing thread from the thread linger. The tendency of the auxiliarytakeup to steal thread from the thread finger has been an objectionablefeatureof chain stitch inseam sewing machines as heretofore constructedthe loop of thread drawn out by the thread linger being often shortenedb v the action of the auxiliary takeup to such an extent as to cause anobjectionable reaving of the thread through the hook of the needle. Bytiming the takeup and auxiliary takeup -so'that the auxiliarytakeupfalls to its limit before the thread arm begins to give up thread to theneedle,all liability o'f an objectionable shortening of the loop ofthread drawn out by the thread' finger eifectually overcome.'

The back rest R is constructed substantially as in said patentedmachine.

segment. guide.

The Welt guide W, or in case of the turn sewing machine thecoi-responding back'V lower end of a Welt guide segment 9, which isreceived in a guide outside of the needle The guide is concentric4 withthe needle axis. The movements ofthe ywelt guide are therefore in thepath 'of movement of the needle, or more correctly Speaking perhaps, themovements of the welt guide are concentric with the axis of,

the needle. The Welt guide segment is provided upon its exterior surfacewith segmental gear teeth, which are engaged by the pinion 10 whichv isin turn carried by the pinion shaft 11 `mounted in a bearing in the headof the .machine which shaft 11 upon its opposite end carries thesegmental pinion 12in turn engaging the, rack carriedby the Welt guideslide 111. The welt guide slide 14 is moved forward by the spring 15 andretracted by a cam mechanism consisting of the pawl 1G carried bythewelt guide lever 17 pivoted at 18 to a stationary part 4of the machineand carrying upon it-s other end a cam roll engaginga cam path inthe camdisk 19 mountedl upon the main shaft S of the machine. An adjustablecover plate 2O secured to the head determines tlie refractive stroke ofthe Welt guide slide which, it will be observed, is uniform in lengthfor any positior of the cover plate. The pawl 1G as is clearly shown inFig. 4 is arranged to engage ratchet teeth" ,arranged to hold the paivlout. of engagement with the teeth during a portion of its stroke. Byadjusting the plate 20 longitudinally with relation to the paul 1G, thelength of the operative stroke ofthe pawl is increased or diminishedanda corresponding change made in the refractive stroke of the Welt guideslide. Locking pawls 21 carried by a locking lever 22 pivoted at Q3 tothe frame of the machine and carrying upon its upper end a cani rollengaging a cam path iii the cam disk 3 afford means for locking the weltguide slide` in Vits fui'- ward position.

The above. described arrangement and the shape of the :im paths are suchthat during the Work feeding movement of the aivl the welt guide slideis retracted from the work to release the ivoik and again moved forivardat the completion of the Work feeding movement so1 that it engages andsupports the `Work duringvthe puncturing movement of the a-Wl, the pawl21 by the means cle-125 scribed engaging the rack of the Welt guidevslide to hold the Welt guideI stationary during this puncturingmovement. it is to be observed that the Welt guide moves bodily in thecurved path of the needle and not,l as 13o in 'the Fowler and WarrenPatent No.

4560,70.,V in a manner w` 'ich changes the angle vof'fthe welt guide .tothe needlev during itsretracting and advancing strokes. .By

irrespective of its movements.-

The awl A is a circularly curved work feeding and puncturing instrument.It is pivotallylmounted upon the feedslide, and ispadapted to beoscilla-ted about the axis i of the'needle. It has two movements, anoscillatoryl to engage and puncture the mal terials', and a lateralmovement to feed thev work. Specifically considered the awl is mountedupon the awl'segment 24 pivotally mounted upon the downwardly hangingend of the awl carrier which is secured to the feed slide 26.v The link27 is attached at its one end tdthe aWl segment 24- and at the other endto the intermediate awl lever 28, which in turn is pivoted at V29 upontheV upwardly extending. intermediatev awl lever support 30. 1' Theintermediate awl lever 28 is slotted at 31l and receives in said slot' aslide block 32, which is ivotally attached to the downwardly exten ingarm 334 of a' bell crank lever the rearwardly extending arm 34' of whichcarries a cam roll which engages a cam path in the-cam disk 3 on the Theslide block 32 is made'long enough so that the reciprocations of thefeed slide. do not disengage the said slide blockfrom the slot 31 in theintermediate awl lever 28. The means described operate to oscillate theawl.` The` shape of the cam path will be referred to in the descriptionof the motions of the awl.

The lateral' movementsof the awl are Vsecured by the reciprocationsofthe feed slide 26,`which is actuated in the'usua-l manner.

The'above described arrangement and the shape of the ca m paths whichguide the awl tomake it oscillatory and its lateral movements are such`that at the endv of the back feed the. awlfmoves downward and toward theleft in the direction of the feed and toward and into engagement withthe work, puncturing the between substance slightly beyondthe bottom ofthe channel. The awl then moves to the left feeding 'the work for thelength of the stitch, whereupon it moves down through the materialszpenetrating the between substance, upper and welt.

It then rises asthe needle advances, and afterthe needle has engaged thematerials the back.- feed begins. Owing to the factthat. the, awl pointmoves about the axis of the needle. and because the awl segment ispivoted so low, it is necessary that the back `feed movement ofthe awlbe somewhat greater than the corresponding movement of the awl in aGoodyear machine in order to allow clearance for the looper movement.

chine.

In a turn sewing machine, in which the Welt' guide is not employed, theb ack gage. comprises the work-support and would be mounted vupon thewelt guide segment.

lThe channel. guide C is secured in the usual manner to the channelguide lever 35. The reciprocations of the channel guide ,should be aslimited in extent as possible in order to 'facilitate .sewing aroundsharp curves, as .at the toe and shank of the'shoe. The channel guidelever 35, is therefore slidingl mounted upon the auxiliary channel gui elever 36, in turn pivotally mounted at36a uponthe awl carrier 25. Ahollow stud 37 is secured to the boss 38'of the auxiliary channelguide'lever 36 and the chan` nel guide lever 35 is mounted thereon sothat the auxiliary channel guide lever 36 may have a greater amplitudeof reciprocations than the channel guide lever A spring 39isreceived'within the hollow stud 37 and bears againstthe cap 40 of thechannel guide lever 35, thereby. normally tending to hold the channelguide lever inthe upper end lofthe channel guide lever 35 isprovidedvvith a'hole 41 which receives the pin 42 projecting laterallyfrom the side of the auxiliary channel guide lever 36 so that thelateral movements of the auxiliary channel guide lever do not requirecorresponding lateral movements of the channel guide lever 36.' Theauxiliary channel guide lever 36 carries upon its upper end a cam rollwhich engages a cam surface on the cam disk 43 mounted upon the mainshaft S of the ma- The auxiliary channel guide lever 36is provided withears 44 which embrace the downwardly extended portion of the awl carrier25 and holes in these ears receive a pin by. Awhich the lever is pivotedto the carrier. An adjustable stop 45 screwed into the bracket 46projected forwardly from the under side of the feed slide guide way isadapted to engagethe cap 40 of the channel guide lever 35 during theback feed of the feed slide 26 so as thereby tovlimit theV back feedmovement ofthe channel guide without limiting the back feed movement ofthe feed slide 26. By adjustment of the stop 45, which is provided witha lock nut to secure it ine-adjusted position, the limit of the backfeed movement of the channel guide may be varied. j

' The above described construct-ion and the shape of the cam surface aresuch that` after the needle has advanced and engaged the materialsl thechannel guide C moves back slightly from the bottom of the channel andthen begins its back feed movement, at the end of which it again movesfprward into the bottom of the channel and engages and supports thework. The channel guide remains in engagement with the work duringadvancing movement of the awl, during the feed movement of the awl, andduring. the

work puncturing movement o f the awl land lthe retracting movement ofthe avvl.

l. A shoe sewing machine, having, in.

combination, a curved hook needle, a looper, a thread finger, atake-up,a spring-actuated auxiliary takeup, a relatively fixed stop for limitingthe thread pulling'action of the auxiliary take-up, and means foractuating the parts, all timed and arranged to prevent the' 'auxiliarytake-up from stealing thread from the thread finger during its threaddelivering stroke, substantially as described.

2. A, shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, a curved hook needle,a looper, an awl, a reciprocating feed slide to which the awl-carrier ispivoted, a channel guide pivotally mounted upon the feed slide, meansfor limiting the lateral movements of the channel guide with respect tothe feed slide, and means for actuating the parts, substantially asdescrifcd. 4

3.V A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, a curved hook needle,a looper,

an awl, a channel guide, a feed slide andv means for actuating thepartsto cause the awl to engage, feed and penetrate thebetween-substances and to impart lateral reciprocations to the channelguide less in extent than those impartedfto the awl, substantially asdescribed.

4. A shoe sewing machine, having, in

' combination, a curved hook needle, a looper, a curved awl of the sameradius of curvature as the needle, a channel guide, a feed slide, saidawl and channel'guide being pivotally mounted upon the feed slide, and

,means for actuating` the parts in the proper time relation to eachother and to cause the lateral reciprocations of the awl to exceed thoseof the channel guide, substantially as described. V

5. n. shoe -sewing ,machine,` having, in combination, a curved hool;need1e,'a looper, a curved awl of the same radius of curvature as theneedle, a reciprocating feed slide upon l which the awl is pivotallysupported upon the axis of the needle, the movements of the awl and feedslide operating to cause the awl to move diagonally down toward and intoengagement with the work, to move the awl laterally the stitch length toretract the awl and to move it laterally in the opposite direction adistance in excess of the l stitch length, a channel guide movable t0-ward and from the Work and laterally a,

stitch length, and means for actuating theV parts, substantially asdescribed.

6. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combmation, a curved hook. needle,a looper, a curved awl, a welt guide segment, a welt guide slide Way ofiwhich the center is the axis of the needle and means for actuating theparts operating to oscillate the Welt guide segment in its slide Way tocause it to retract slightly from thc .work during the feed movementthereof and then again to engage the work during the work pene.

trating movement of the awl, substantially as described..

7. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, a curved'hook needle,a looper, a curved avvl, means for actuating theparts operating to causethe awl to engage, feed and penetrate the materials successively, a

welt guide movable in the path of motion of the needle and means foractuating it 4operating to retract it slightlyv fromV the workl duringthe feedvmovement of the awl and 'to cause it to again engage the worlgduring the work penetrating movement' af the aWl, substantially asdescribed.

8. A shoe-sewing machine having ,combined instrumentalities. includingan afwl and means for actuating the awl operating to impart to it alateral movement of greater amplitude than the required feed movement, y

a part of such movement occurring while tracting movement of the needle,enough n l thread to allow the auxiliary take-up to engage its stop atsuch time so as not to steal thread from the loop delivered by thethread inger,substantia1ly as described.

10. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, curved hook needle, alooper, a curved awl of the same radius of. curvature as the needle, areciprocating. feed slide upon which 'the awl is pivotally Asupportedupon the axis of the needle, and means for actuating the .awl and feedslide to cause the a'wl to move diagonally down toward and' intoengagement with the Work, then lto move laterally a stitch'length, thento retract from the Work and finally to move latf a erally in the'opposite Vdirection a distance in excess of the stitch length,substantially as described.:

11. A'shoe sewing machinefhaving, Jin

combination, a curved hook needle, arranged to operate from the outsideo f a lasted shoe and to pass through the Welt, upper andbetween-substance of the shoe, devices ineluding a looper cooperatingwith the needle to form a c ain stitch, a feed slide, a curved awlmounted thereon concentricv with ythe needle and. arranged toenter thechannel 'of the sole of a .shoe and niove with the feed slidewithrelationfto'the needle to feed the work, an oscillatory welt gide, awelt uide slide operating in a' plane at right ang es t0 the axis oftheneedle, a spring to advance the welt guide slide, fa cam. actuated leverto retract the Welt guide slide, and connections between the welt guideslide and the 10 welt guide acting toA transmit the moves 1,092,567'.4 lL I ments of the slide 'in both directions to the welt guide to move'the welt guide toward

